Best Way To Take In A Suit Jacket (Ep. 10)

Introduction

This tutorial will guide you through the process of taking in the sides of a suit jacket, ensuring a better fit. Whether you’re a beginner or looking to refine your tailoring skills, these step-by-step instructions will help you achieve professional results.

Step 1: Prepare the Jacket

• Examine the Jacket: Start by assessing the fit of the suit jacket. Identify where adjustments are needed.
• Pin the Sides: Pin the sides of the jacket to mark where you want to take it in. Focus on the seam that leads into the armhole but do not go all the way into it.
• Mark the Seam: Use tailor's chalk to mark the positions of the pins on the outside of the jacket for reference.

Step 2: Access the Interior

• Create an Opening: Use a seam ripper to carefully open the lining at the bottom of the jacket. Avoid cutting into the fabric of the jacket itself; just make a hole large enough to insert your hand.
• Reach Inside: Pinch the fabric where the pins are located to pull part of the jacket out through the hole you created.

Step 3: Measure and Adjust

• Measure the Take-in Amount: Pinch the fabric to determine how much to take in. You may want to take in about half an inch on each side for a total of one inch.
• Balance the Sides: Ensure both sides are balanced by adjusting the chalk marks accordingly.

Step 4: Pin the New Seam

• Pin the Adjusted Seam: Use pins to secure the new seam line, starting from the armhole and tapering down towards the vent.
• Check Alignment: Frequently check that the new seam aligns with your chalk marks to ensure a smooth transition.

Step 5: Sew the New Seam

• Set Up the Sewing Machine: Position the jacket under the sewing machine needle, aligning it with the pinned seam.
• Begin Sewing: Start sewing at the armhole seam, making sure to backstitch at the beginning.
• Sew Smoothly: Progress slowly, adjusting the fabric as you sew to avoid wrinkles. Pay attention to the seam as you reach the vent, ensuring a smooth transition.

Step 6: Press the New Seam

• Press the Seam: Once you finish sewing, flip the jacket inside out and use an iron with steam to press the new seam flat.
• Use a Clapper: To set the seam, use a clapper while the fabric is still hot. This will ensure a crisp finish.

Step 7: Close the Lining

• Sew the Lining Closed: Use a needle and thread to hand-sew the opening in the lining closed. Use matching thread and a simple knot.
• Invisible Stitch: Ensure that your stitches are not visible on the outside of the garment.
• Secure the Thread: Tie off your thread securely and trim any excess.

Conclusion

You've successfully taken in the sides of a suit jacket! This process not only improves the fit but also maintains the integrity of the garment. For your next steps, consider practicing on different jackets or exploring other tailoring techniques to further enhance your skills. Happy sewing!