Coudre des tissus élastiques (en 15 astuces)

Introduction

This tutorial provides 15 essential tips for sewing with stretchy fabrics like jersey and other knit materials. Whether you’re a beginner or looking to refine your skills, these insights will help you create beautiful garments with ease and confidence.

Step 1: Choose the Right Tools

• Sewing Machine: Use a machine that can handle stretch stitches. A Bernette B38 is recommended.
• Needles: Opt for ballpoint or stretch needles designed specifically for knit fabrics.
• Pins and Clips: Utilize plastic clips instead of pins to avoid damaging the fabric.

Step 2: Prepare Your Fabric

• Pre-Wash: Always pre-wash your stretchy fabrics to prevent shrinkage later.
• Ironing: Use a mini iron to press seams gently without distorting the fabric.

Step 3: Use Stabilizers

• Stabilize Seams: Apply wonder tape or fusible interfacing to stabilize seams and hems, preventing stretching while sewing.
• Edging: Consider using a stay tape on the edges to maintain shape.

Step 4: Select the Right Stitch

• Stretch Stitches: Use a zig-zag or stretch stitch to allow the seams to stretch without breaking.
• Overlock Stitch: If available, an overlock stitch is ideal for knits as it finishes edges and allows for stretch.

Step 5: Adjust Tension Settings

• Test Tension: Before starting your project, test the thread tension. Stretchy fabrics often require a looser tension setting.

Step 6: Cut Fabric Carefully

• Use Sharp Scissors: Invest in high-quality scissors like Fiskars for clean cuts.
• Pattern Placement: Lay out your patterns carefully to avoid distortion while cutting.

Step 7: Handle Seams with Care

• Sew with the Right Side Up: Always sew with the right side of the fabric facing up to avoid misalignment.
• Sew Slowly: Take your time when sewing to ensure accuracy and avoid stretching the fabric.

Step 8: Finish Edges Properly

• Serger Use: If you have a serger, use it to finish raw edges for a professional look.
• Zig-Zag Stitch: If a serger is unavailable, use a zig-zag stitch to prevent fraying.

Step 9: Hemming Techniques

• Double Needle: For a professional hem, use a double needle for a clean finish on the outside of the garment.
• Blind Hem: A blind hem stitch can also be effective for a discreet finish.

Step 10: Use Amidon Spray

• Stiffening Fabric: Apply starch spray to stiffen the fabric slightly, making it easier to sew.

Step 11: Take Your Time with Curves

• Sewing Curves: When sewing curves, clip the seam allowance to reduce bulk and achieve a smoother finish.

Step 12: Practice on Scraps

• Test Stitches: Always practice your stitching on scrap fabric before working on the actual garment.

Step 13: Use a Walking Foot

• Prevent Fabric Slippage: A walking foot helps to feed multiple layers evenly, reducing the risk of puckering.

Step 14: Finish with Care

• Press Seams: Gently press all seams after sewing to set the stitches and improve the overall finish.
• Avoid Darts: If possible, avoid darts in stretchy fabrics to maintain their elasticity.

Step 15: Experiment and Enjoy

• Try Different Fabrics: Don’t hesitate to experiment with various stretchy fabrics to discover what works best for you.
• Create Unique Designs: Use these techniques to create custom garments that fit perfectly.

Conclusion

By following these 15 tips for sewing with stretchy fabrics, you can achieve professional results and enhance your sewing skills. Start with simple projects and gradually take on more complex designs. Happy sewing!