TUTO TRACER ET CRÉER UN PATRON A PARTIR D'UN VETEMENT exemple slip culotte (technique couture)

Introduction

In this tutorial, you will learn how to trace and create a sewing pattern from an existing garment, specifically a slip. This technique can also be applied to other clothing items like tops or dresses. By following these steps, you can create your own lingerie patterns and enhance your sewing skills.

Step 1: Gather Your Materials

Before starting, ensure you have the following materials ready:

• An old slip to deconstruct
• Paper (preferably in a roll)
• A ruler and a square (optional)
• An eraser and a pencil
• Pins
• Measuring tape
• Tape
• Weights or metal washers (e.g., M20)
• Washable fabric marker for marking
• Pilot Frixion pen for fine markings

Step 2: Deconstruct the Slip

Carefully unpick the seams of the slip. Focus on:

• Unraveling both sides to keep the shape intact.
• Avoiding damage to the fabric to maintain accuracy for your pattern.

Step 3: Position the Front of the Slip

Once deconstructed, lay the front part of the slip flat on your paper.

• Use the metal washers as weights to hold the fabric in place.
• Align the slip along the centerline of the paper for accuracy.

Step 4: Trace the Front Pattern

Start tracing the front pattern:

• Choose the side of the slip that is best deconstructed.
• Mark all important points, such as curves and edges.
• Use a dashed line to indicate the outline.
• Refine the curves to ensure a smooth pattern.

Step 5: Position the Back of the Slip

Repeat the process with the back of the slip:

• Place the back piece flat on the paper.
• Ensure it is positioned correctly for tracing.

Step 6: Trace the Back Pattern

Carefully trace the back of the slip:

• Follow the same method as the front.
• Make sure to capture all details accurately.

Step 7: Check Measurements

Before finalizing your patterns, check the lengths:

• Measure the sides of both the front and back pieces.
• Ensure the bottom edges align properly.

Step 8: Add Seam Allowances

Incorporate seam allowances into your pattern:

• For sides and bottom: add 1 cm.
• For the leg and waist openings: add 0.4 to 0.7 cm.

Step 9: Create the Full Front Pattern

Using the traced front pattern, create a complete front piece:

• Use transparency if needed to finalize the design.

Step 10: Create the Full Back Pattern

Repeat the transparency technique for the back of the slip:

• Ensure it matches with the front for a complete pattern.

Step 11: Finalize the Back Piece

Make any necessary adjustments to the back pattern:

• Ensure all measurements and curves are correct.

Step 12: Cut Out the Pieces

Carefully cut out the three pieces of your slip pattern:

• Front, back, and the gusset (underneath).

Step 13: Calculate Elastic Lengths

Determine the lengths of elastic needed for your slip:

• Reduce the total length by about 15% for stretch allowance.
• Be cautious, as some elastics have varying stretch qualities.

Conclusion

You have now successfully traced and created a sewing pattern from an existing slip! This method can be adapted for various clothing items. Next, you can use your new pattern to sew your own lingerie or experiment with different fabrics. Happy sewing!