AMGA Single Pitch Instructor pick off / rescue / lead climber rescue

Introduction

This tutorial covers the essential techniques and gear needed for conducting a climber rescue in a single pitch environment, as outlined in the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor guidelines. Whether you're managing a rescue or assisting a leader climber, the skills and tools discussed here are vital for ensuring safety in climbing situations.

Step 1: Gather Your Gear

Before initiating a rescue, ensure you have the following equipment ready:

• 48' Sling: A long sling is essential for creating a secure anchor.
• Petzl Grigri: This device will help control descent and manage the climber's weight.
• Prussik Loop: Useful for ascending or descending safely on the rope.
• 3 Locking Carabiners: Necessary for securing connections and ensuring safety.

Practical Tips

• Inspect all equipment for wear and tear before use.
• Familiarize yourself with each piece of gear to ensure quick and effective use during a rescue.

Step 2: Establish a Secure Anchor

Creating a reliable anchor is crucial for the success of the rescue operation.

1. Choose a solid rock feature or existing anchor point.
2. Use the 48' sling to create a secure loop around the anchor.
3. Attach one of the locking carabiners to secure the sling in place.

Common Pitfalls to Avoid

• Avoid using anchors that are loose or unstable.
• Ensure the sling is properly threaded and locked to prevent slippage.

Step 3: Set Up the Grigri

The Grigri is essential for managing the climber's descent safely.

1. Attach the Grigri to the anchor using another locking carabiner.
2. Thread the rope through the Grigri, ensuring the brake side is oriented correctly.
3. Test the setup by pulling down on the rope to ensure it locks properly.

Practical Advice

• Always double-check that the Grigri is positioned correctly to avoid accidental release.

Step 4: Use the Prussik Loop

The Prussik loop is a vital tool for ascending the rope or providing additional security.

1. Tie the Prussik knot using the loop around the rope.
2. Attach the third locking carabiner to the Prussik knot for added security.
3. Test the Prussik's grip by pulling on it while ensuring it slides easily when not under weight.

Key Considerations

• Ensure the Prussik knot is tied correctly to prevent failure.
• Familiarize yourself with the technique of using a Prussik for both ascent and descent.

Step 5: Conduct the Rescue

Once your setup is secure, you can begin the rescue process.

1. Communicate clearly with the climber to ensure they are ready.
2. Use the Grigri to lower the climber carefully while maintaining control.
3. If necessary, use the Prussik loop to assist in ascending or lowering the climber.

Safety Reminders

• Always maintain a clear line of communication with the climber.
• Monitor the climber's condition and adjust your technique as needed.

Conclusion

Understanding the gear and techniques for a single pitch climber rescue is crucial for any climbing instructor or enthusiast. Always practice these skills in a safe environment before attempting them in real-life scenarios. Regularly review your equipment and techniques to stay prepared for any climbing emergencies.