5 Useful Pattern Drafting Tips

Introduction

This tutorial provides five practical tips for pattern drafting that can enhance your sewing skills. Whether you're creating your own patterns or modifying existing ones, these techniques will help simplify the process and boost your confidence in making clothes.

Step 1: Understand the 90° Rule

• The 90° Rule emphasizes the importance of right angles in pattern drafting.
• Ensure that all corners where seams meet form a 90° angle. This will help in achieving a well-fitted garment.
• Use a ruler or a right-angle tool to check your angles while drafting.

Step 2: Apply the 180° Rule

• The 180° Rule is about creating balance in your patterns.
• When drafting curves, ensure the transition between different angles and lines is smooth.
• Take note of how fabric will fall and drape in relation to the pattern shape. This can prevent awkward fits.

Step 3: Harness the Power of the Triangle

• Triangles are fundamental shapes in pattern drafting that can provide stability and structure.
• Use triangles to create balance in your designs, especially in bodices and skirts.
• When adding darts or structure, consider using triangular shapes to guide your adjustments.

Step 4: Recognize That Fabric Matters

• Different fabrics behave differently; this can significantly affect your pattern’s fit and drape.
• Always test your pattern with the actual fabric you intend to use.
• Consider the weight, stretch, and texture of your fabric to inform your drafting and adjustments.

Step 5: Listen to the Wrinkles

• Wrinkles can reveal issues in your pattern fitting.
• After trying on a muslin or sample garment, observe where wrinkles form.
• Adjust your pattern accordingly to address areas of tension or excess fabric, ensuring a better fit.

Conclusion

By applying these five pattern drafting tips, you can create more accurate and comfortable garments. Start with the basics of angles, utilize the properties of triangles, consider the fabric's characteristics, and always be mindful of how the garment fits on the body. With practice, you'll find that drafting your own patterns becomes an enjoyable and manageable task. Happy sewing!